Public transport
Venice's public transport, primarily the Vaporetto (waterbus), is essential due to the absence of cars in the city. A single 75-minute ticket costs €9.50, allowing unlimited travel within that period. For extended stays or frequent travel, consider purchasing a Tourist Travel Card:
24-hour pass: €25
48-hour pass: €35
72-hour pass: €45
7-day pass: €65
These passes offer unlimited travel on ACTV water and land services within the municipality of Venice. Tickets can be purchased online, at ACTV ticket offices, or authorised resellers. For more information and to buy tickets, visit the official Venezia Unica website.
Water taxis and gondolas are significantly more expensive but provide a private and scenic experience.
For an affordable yet enchanting experience, take a Vaporetto along the Grand Canal, especially at night when the city is beautifully illuminated.
Water taxis and gondolas are significantly more expensive but provide a private and scenic experience.
For an affordable yet enchanting experience, take a Vaporetto along the Grand Canal, especially at night when the city is beautifully illuminated.
Orientation in Venice
Venice's labyrinthine layout can be challenging, and GPS often struggles due to narrow streets and dense architecture. It's advisable to carry an offline or paper map as a backup.
The city is divided into six districts, known as Sestieri: Santa Croce, Cannaregio, Dorsoduro, San Polo, San Marco, and Castello. Two main canals traverse the city: the Grand Canal (an S-shaped waterway) and the Giudecca Canal (separating Giudecca Island).
The city is divided into six districts, known as Sestieri: Santa Croce, Cannaregio, Dorsoduro, San Polo, San Marco, and Castello. Two main canals traverse the city: the Grand Canal (an S-shaped waterway) and the Giudecca Canal (separating Giudecca Island).
Venetian terminology differs from mainland Italy:
Calle, Ramo, Fondamenta: Streets
Campiello, Campo, Corte: Squares (only Piazza San Marco is called "Piazza"/"Square")
Rio, Canal: Smaller waterways and canals
To visit islands such as Murano, Burano, or Torcello, you'll need a Vaporetto. The main Sestieri are all accessible on foot.
Venice Main Island
Let’s talk about Venice's main island and the “Sesrtieri”. First of all.. the most crowed for sure is the San Marco (San Marco Square) and San Polo (Rialto Bridge) in order Dorsoduro, Canareggio and Castello (forget about Santa Croce, you will know why when you read the following points). So then:
Santa Croce
This area is not often crowded/known. For sure, forget about the western part of this “Sestriere” 😊 this is the area where locals park their cars and where you can get public transport for the Italy mainland.
Notable Churches:
- Chiesa di San Giacomo dell'Orio: One of Venice's oldest churches, adorned with numerous paintings.
- Chiesa di San Stae: Known for its Tiepolo paintings.
- Chiesa del Tolentino
- Chiesa di San Simeon Grande and Chiesa di San Simeon Piccolo
Architecture & Views:
- Fontego dei Turchi: A Venetian Gothic building housing the Museum of Natural History.
- Ponte della Costituzione (Calatrava Bridge): The most recent bridge in Venice, designed by Santiago Calatrava. Note: Its glass stairs can be slippery in winter, reason why the local are usually blamin the mojor for a lot of money spent on it.
- Ponte degli Scalzi: Located in front of the train station, offering lovely views of the Grand Canal.
- Train stations. Just only have a look from outside. The style is a post-fascist style with a refurbishment in the 80s. That’s it.
Gardens:
- Giardini Papadopoli: A small, historic garden that's typically uncrowded (but also small, and you will have something better if you wish).
Museums:
- Palazzo Mocenigo: Focuses on the history of textiles. https://mocenigo.visitmuve.it/en/home/
- Palazzo Ca' Pesaro: Houses a museum of modern art. https://capesaro.visitmuve.it/en/home/
Suggested Walk:
- Start from Ponte della Costituzione and walk along the Ferrovia (train station).
Dorsoduro
A vibrant district, popular among students due to its proximity to Ca' Foscari University and IUAV (Architecture)
Notable Churches:
- Chiesa di Santa Maria della Salute.
- Chiesa dei Gesuati: Features paintings by Tiepolo and Tintoretto.
Architecture & Views:
- Punta della Dogana: Located near Santa Maria della Salute, it's where the Grand Canal and Giudecca Canal converge. Offers splendid views of San Marco Square.
- Ponte dell'Accademia: A high bridge providing panoramic views of the Grand Canal. A lot of paintings were made from this view (mainly all the one's at the British Museum, for example)
- Ponte dei Pugni: Known for historical fistfights between rival factions. (translated means bridge of fist)
- Squero San Trovaso: A traditional gondola workshop. Not sure that is also still running.
- Calle Varisco: The narrowest "Calle" in Venice.
- Campo Santa Margherita: A lively square frequented by students, with numerous bars offering Spritz.
Museums:
- Peggy Guggenheim Collection.https://www.venicepass.eu/
- Gallerie dell'Accademia: Showcases an impressive collection of Venetian paintings.
Suggested Walk:
- Walk along the Fondamenta delle Zattere to Punta della Dogana: here you can have a good sightseeing of the Canal della Giudecca and the Giudecca island. Not crowded and a good view of Venetian houses. My suggestion: start from Squero and walk to Punta della Dogana.
Cannaregio
Known for the historic Jewish Ghetto.
Notable Churches:
- Chiesa della Madonna dell'Orto: my mother always suggests this :) as this is the church where she grew up. Features Tintoretto paintings.
- Chiesa degli Scalzi: Located near the train station.
- Chiesa di Santa Maria della Salute
- Chiesa dei Gesuati: Tiepolo and Tintoretto paintings.
Architecture & Views:
- Ghetto Ebraico: Established in 1516, it's the oldest Jewish ghetto in Europe.
- Palazzo Ca' d'Oro.
- Despar Teatro Italia: A supermarket housed in an 18th-century building adorned with paintings.
- Ponte delle Guglie, Ponte dei tre archi: I’m not really highlighting those bridges because, for sure, you will pass them on your walks. It’s part of a common walk.
Suggested Walks:
- Stroll along Fondamenta degli Ormesini, lined with restaurants and Bacari.
- Walk along the fondamenta Canareggio till the end, you will see the Ponte della libertà (on your left) and the western part of the lagoon (westmost there is a park, San Giuliano Park). This bridge (Ponte della libertà), which means bridge of freedom, was built in the middle of the 18th century and then renamed after the 2nd World War in the name of freedom from fascism. This bridge is also meant to give freedom to the Venetian people, as this is the only bridge that connects to the mainland (with Trains and cars).
- Head to Fondamenta Nove for views of the northern lagoon and islands like San Michele and Burano. (Here is where you can also take the waterbus to Burano or the airport as well)
San Polo
Yeah… here is where the Rialto Bridge is located, a must. I will list it… But it is a crowded tourist place.
Notable Churches:
- Basilica dei Frari.
Architecture & Views:
- Scuola Grande di San Rocco.
- Casa di Carlo Goldoni.
- Ponte delle Tette: yes.. means exactly that: bridge of tits. Here is where in the 16th-18th centuries prostitutes did their business..
- Rialto Market: Have a tour there, is not enormous and it’s open only some days and early morning. Is even good also to have a walk if not open also because you can see the canal and building facing for a different POV. If open, you can ask for raw Moeche (Crab with soft shell) and Castraure (famous Venetian artichokes) if you wish 😊 but then you have to cook them!!
- Campo San Polo: The second-largest square in Venice.
- Fondaco dei Tedeschi: this building was the post office. Now is a luxury mall. Mall a side, you can book a view from the rooftop here (do not expect a higher view like the one from the shard 😊). https://www.dfs.com/en/venice/service/rooftop-terrace
San Marco
yes yes… San Marco Square, Basilica di san marco and Palazzo Ducale and Ponte dei sospiri. The main attractions are there.
Architecture & Views:
- Scala del Bovolo: not usually known… I think. It’s mainly a stair but is famous for its style and arches.
- Negozio Olivetti: If there is something unusual for tourists is this shop. This is an old Olivetti shop (Olivetti was a worldwide famous typewriter and then computer company), now a museum, with all the interiors designed by Carlo Scarpa (a Venetian architect). From the outside, you can see the inside stairs (with longer stairs made also to serve as a shelf), the floor and an unusual (for the period) way to hang the typewriter and show it in the front window. This was a Flagship of Olivetti, as a lot of other branches all around the world are made from Olivetti with a design and architectural original style.
- Ponte della paglia: from where all the tourist will watch Ponte dei sospiri. Paglia means straw… and is called in this way as a lot of boats stop there with the straw needed for all the adjacent jails. (read the story of Ponte dei sospiri and you know all the reasons why also is called Ponte dei sospiri).
- Ponte della Canonica: From this bridge you can see as well the Ponte dei sospiri…. Usually less crowded.
- Bacino Orseolo: one place where a lot of Gondola will stop.
- San Marco Square: All the famous attractions, The square itself (do not miss at the night) The Basilica, the palazzo ducale, La torre dell’orologio con i Do Mori
- Teatro la fenice: the most importat teather of Venice. Not sure you can visit.
Suggested Walks:
- From Negozio Olivetti, go to the bridge of cavalletto to the sottoportego del cavalletto. Continue to Ponte di Goldoni and then make your path to Ponte dell’accademia… you will cross a lot of bridges and views.
Castello
Architecture & Views:
- Hotel Danieli: if not the most expensive hotel… one of. I think you can have a simple tour inside. Have a look only at the ground floor, the stair at the main entrance and the all. Amazing. If they allow and you wish (remember that is expensive) you can have a drink from the balcony, with an amazing view of punta della Dogana, Giudecca, canal grande and canal della Giudecca.
- Libreria acqua alta: it should be a library… but it’s more of an exhibition. Looooots of books that make walls. Have a look
- Campo san Giovanni e paolo: was a famous square before San Marco
Gardens:
- Giardini della Biennale or Giardini di Sant’elena: Those are our park. Have a tour here with all the exhibits of the biennale. Around there are a lot of good bars to have a rest with a good spritz My preferred is Caffè la serra.
- San Francesco della Vigna: historical vineyard of Venice.
Museums:
- Biennale di Venezia: This area is where the Biennale of Venice will host the exhibits. It’s exposed In various buildings and depends on the period. Here is the site where you can get all the info https://www.labiennale.org/en- Arsenale: the most famous naval museum in Italy. This was also the military area of Venice republic, sometimes a lot of events and exhibits will happen here (with Biennale mainly)
Suggested Walks:
- Walk from Ponte della paglia (San Marco) along the Riva degli schiavoni till the beginning of Via Garibaldi (yes the only “Via” of venice). Enter via Garibaldi and walk to the entrance of the Garibaldi monument gates. Enter the gates and go straight. You will end again on another Riva, Riva Sette Martiri. From there you can continue to walk along the Riva, till you reach the Giardini della biennale. Then, lost yourself in the Giardini della biennale and have a walk along Viale IV Novembre.
Islands to Explore:
- Giudecca: A residential area offering fantastic views of St Mark's Square. Visit the Molino Stucky Hotel's rooftop bar for panoramic vistas.
- Murano: Renowned for glassmaking. Visit esteemed factories like Venini and be cautious of overly persistent vendors.
- Burano: Famous for its colourful houses and lace-making traditions.
- Torcello: Quiet and historic, featuring landmarks like the Devil's Bridge and Attila's Throne.
- Lido di Venezia: Venice's beach destination, unique for allowing cars and hosting the Venice Film Festival.
- San Giorgio Maggiore: Offers stunning views of St Mark's Square from its bell tower.
Islands not on the upper map
Let me tell you that there are a thousand other islands in Venice, most of them are wild, some are private (like JW Marriott hotel Island), and some others are only suggested after you visit all the main parts of Venice. Those are:
San Michele: The Venetian Cemetery. While architecturally similar to other parts of Venice, it offers a serene atmosphere.The architecture is equal to what you will find in all the other parts of Venice. https://www.visitvenezia.eu/en/venetianity/discover-venice/the-island-of-san-michele-a-sacred-place-full-of-charm
Vignole: Predominantly wild, popular in summer for its simple restaurant, Trattoria alle Vignole. https://www.visitvenezia.eu/en/venetianity/discover-venice/the-secret-island-of-vignole-where-tourism-does-not-arrive
San Giorgio: Home to a maze and the Sail Club, no more.. it's also a great spot to view San Marco.
Lio Piccolo: A wild area in the lagoon, best explored by bicycle in summer. Enjoy meals at local "agriturismo" restaurants, which serve dishes made predominantly from self-produced ingredients.
Lido di Venezia: (hey!! Here there are cars!!) This is the location of the Venice Film Festival. We call it our “Fancy and posh island” as this is also the Venetian seaside with a beach… but it is "posh and fancy" mainly only in summertime and during the Venice Film Festival. For sure, there are a lot of good restaurants. Suggest visiting only if you have spare time (here is located a famous hotel called Excelsior)
Typical Venetian meals
Sandwich
Tramezzini - Our quick and tasty is the “tramezzino”. We are proud of our Tramezzino 😊 as far as a typical joke between friends is “let’s go to the US, UK or Caribbean place and open a bar that sells Tramezzini”. Those are two triangles of white soft bread filled with a mix of ingredients. The most classic is only Tuna sauce or Tuna with “something” (can be olives, vinegar, onions, eggs), Ham and mushrooms, Mozzarella and Tomato. But nowadays there is a lot of choices.
Mozzarella in carrozza – A deep-fried slice of bread with Mozzarella, sardines or ham. Few places made it… You will find it in the list of Bacaro places.
Small bites (at Bacaro usually)
Venice is famous for its bacari—traditional, informal wine bars where locals gather for a quick drink and a bite to eat. These cosy spots serve cicchetti, small savoury snacks that are the Venetian version of tapas. Typically enjoyed standing at the counter or perched on a stool, cicchetti include delights like marinated seafood, crostini topped with creamy cod (baccalà mantecato), meatballs (polpette), or fried mozzarella sandwiches (mozzarella in carrozza). Pair your selection with an ombra (a small glass of local wine) for a truly authentic Venetian experience. It’s the perfect way to taste your way through the city while mingling with the locals.
Typical dishes – In Italian cuisine, do not serve a "main plate", but antipasto, first, second and dessert. I do not suggest you have all the courses, as some combination is usually filling. We usually choose between a first or second plate and between antipasto or dessert. Below are some of our typical dishes.
Pasta – First
Bigoi in Salsa – Thick long pasta with sardines and onions
Scampi alla busara – long king of pasta (like as spaghetti or tagliatelle) with Scampi (big shrimps)
Risotto - First
Risi e bisi – Rice with peas
Risotto di Go – Not so simple to find: rice and fish (Fish called Go)
Second dishes (if smaller, can often be antipasti)
Baccala’ mantecato – It’s a really good cream of cod fish (from dry cod fish) made with milk and herbs. The original recipe takes at least 1 day to craft it
Sarde in saor – Sardins with onions and vinegar. Tasty as well.
Schie con polenta – small shrimp with cornmeal cooked.
Fegato alla veneziana – Liver grilled and served with onions and other herbs (Venetian signature dish all over the world)
Moeche – those are small baby crabs fried with their soft shell. It’s a historical dish of Venice, few fishermen know when, where, when and which baby crabs (moeche) come: those need to have a soft shell (not the usual hard of the crabs) and in one day can change!
Typical drinks/Wine
Spritz – As you probably know, this is originally from the Veneto region. BTW most of our cities have some different brands/kinds of bitters. The original bitter from Venice is “Select”, similar to Aperol, but I will say less sweet. Another alternative to Aperol is Campari or Cynar.
Ombra – you will probably hear someone asking in the Venetian dialect for “un ombra de vin”, which literally means “one shadow of wine”. It’s a small glass of wine… which wine? In the past, our grandparents didn’t really care, nowadays you can ask for a wine list or for the house wine.
Wines – There are no typical wines crafted in Venice… but I will say that the most common in the eastern part of Italy is:
Reds: Merlot, Cabernet, Valpolicela, Amarone
Whites: Collio, Pinot Grigio, Firulano, Ribolla gialla
Sparkling: Prosecco, obviously 😊
Sweets/biscuits
Baicoi – Dry biscuits, historically good for long sea trips. You can find it in a typical yellow metal (or white cartoon) box made by Colussi.
Bussoai – Sometimes may have different shapes (with different names). Those are huge circular biscuits, with vanilla, flour and butter. Historically used not only as food a for their good scent.
Eating in Venice
You can have mainly three kind of places:
Historical restaurants/bars – those are mainly located in San Marco Square. Some of them are expensive, and unfortunately, most of them are now crowded tourist places:
Harris Bar - Harry's Bar (cipriani.com) The Cipriani bar. All the cities have this kind of bar, where writers, actors, painters.. met and discussed in past. This is the one. This is also the original Cipriani bar.
Florian- Venice Shop Souvenirs - Caffè Florian (caffeflorian.com) Expensive, it will be worth seeing the paintings and all the historical decorations.
Quadri - Homepage - Grancaffè Quadri – Alajmo Expensive. Same as Florian for paintings and decorations. This is also now owned by one of the best chefs in Italy (and in the world) Alajmo Massimiliano Alajmo - Wikipedia
Fancy restaurants
Ristorante Venissa | Stella MICHELIN e Stella Verde MICHELIN - Venissa – You will probably not find a proper typical Venetian dish, but more a revised one. The two chefs are famous for their planted herbs and vegetables and use of mainly local ingredients to craft excellent local signature dishes.
Ristoranti cucina tipica consigliati Venezia centro storico Rialto (ristorantedafiore.com) – One of the most know in Venice.
Bacari – I will say that is our kind of “pubs” run and owned by a family (Osteria). Here you can eat a quick bite standing or seated (depending on the size of the venue) with a tasty glass of wine and small typical plates (mainly fish and meat). As Venetians, we usually do a kind of “baccaro tour”… where with small bites and a few glasses of wine, you walk around Venice to eat. Have a look at opening times… some of them allow eating and drinking only between 5 pm and 730pm. Usually, those bacari close soon (max 10 pm). Below is my "tour" list
Between Piazzale Roma and Canareggio Area
Bar Filovia. https://goo.gl/maps/JxT1bzK7MWLQHS38A - Simple in a corner. This is usually the first or last step of our bacaro tour. Simple and only Tramezzini with a spritz.
Canareggio Area
Paradiso Perduto Venezia | Osteria & Jazz Club (wordpress.com) – This is my favourite bacaro! You can eat standing or have a seat. Suggested.
Vedova - https://goo.gl/maps/7Xykc6PrYjbVAm5WA If you ask a Venetian where to eat the meatballs the answer will be Vedova.
Cantina Vecia Carbonera https://goo.gl/maps/xmc8UuEcNYRGXph87
https://tavernaremer.com/ (also a good restaurant)
There are some other places in Canareggio along the path of Rio della Misericordia. Also some good restaurants. Most of them are usually habits of locals.
Rialto Area
Corte dell’orso https://goo.gl/maps/GF8owGtyo7Xdjzh16
Rosticceria Gison https://goo.gl/maps/umTpstSVBqzeMCCM9 Here is where you can get your Mozzarella in Carrozza.
Dorsoduro
Osteria al squero - https://goo.gl/maps/4ZqfgscVAn2ysu4S7 - On the other side of the canal you can see one of the few “Squero”, where the Gondola is crafted (unfortunately the last handcrafter dies a few years ago).
Camp Santa Margherita Square - https://goo.gl/maps/KF3QuZav8u8Xp6s89 here there are a lot of places… as this area is the most “student” area. I don’t know a lot of places here.. but I’m sure some of them are good.
Carnival
There is plenty of official events. Here is the official event web site Home - Carnevale di Venezia 2023 - sito ufficiale. I probably suggest attending to
Original Signs: Arsenal Water Show - Carnevale di Venezia 2023 - sito ufficiale it’s on the eastern part of Venice.
Original Signs: Arsenal Water Show - Carnevale di Venezia 2023 - sito ufficiale this is a “historical” activity of carnival… TBH nothing really special to see: a mask hung on a cable that dances at 100 meters high but is one of the most “important” events.
Dinner and Dress: If there are still free seats, my suggestion should be to attend a Carnival dinner dressed in the right dress. On this site there is the official dinner one (really expensive), I’m asking some friends (one of them is the event director of Venice Carnival) if they know a trusted place to rent dresses and a trusted and good dinner. I will let you know.
Crowded place: Carnival is the period when Venice is most crowded and sometimes you are not able to enter San Marco square on the weekends as is packed, better on the weekdays. On the other, those are where you can find most of the masks…
Typical sweets of Carnival
Along the carnival, in Italy there are some special sweets, that are different in every Italy region. In Venice you have to try:
Frittelle – This is a small fried pastry.
The original Venetian one is empty and only with raisins Ricetta Frittelle di Carnevale veneziane | Ricetta | Ricette, Frittelle, Dolci italiani (pinterest.com)
There are also other versions with custard or zabaione.
Galani – fried pastry with sugar Ricetta di Carnevale | Galani veneti | da provare subito (ricettasprint.it)
Suggested place to eat those sweets.
There are some good places, and also you can find them all around Venice. I will only suggest you avoid places in most tourist areas (San Marco square, Rialto) as those are probably not handcrafted. A good way to understand if is a good place is: to avoid the place that is selling the Cannolo Siciliano… this is not a sweet of Venice, and usually is made with not the right ingredients.
Pasticceria Rosa Salva - Sestiere di S. Marco, 950, 30124 Venezia, Venezia VE, Italia
Pasticceria Tonolo - Calle San Pantalon, 3764, Venezia, VE, Italia